- Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions. Plunging waves form when they hit relatively steep slopes, the top break over and fall over itself forming tubes ideal for surfing. Spilling waves form on relatively flat slopes breaking far from sure and then gently rolling in. Surging waves do not break when they hit the shore line but instead roll up it before smashing upon them causing much erosion.
- Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured? Waves are formed far out at sea through storms and high wind speeds, they originate through air energy that transfers to water, they are measured by their height, wave length, wave period.
- What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed? A Maverick wave is a wave that forms of the coast of Canada and is special because of the way it forms, when the energy hits the steep slopes the wave refracts and causes huge waves to shoot up straight out of the ocean.
- How is energy stored and transferred during wave? It is stored in what can be described as multiple circulating energy spheres that travel form the wave surface to the sea bed and when in contact with shallow water are compressed froming the wave to shoot up.
- List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.” You can wear weights that take you straght to the bottom or life jackets that keep you afloat in the instance you fall off. But the advice given is to not fall off and to catch it before it becomes to big.
Thursday, October 20, 2011
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