Thursday, October 13, 2011

Geography homework 7.2

1 Outline the three stages in the formation of a wave.

First wind forms ripples, then these form wavelets and finally waves

2 What is the fetch? Why is it an important factor in determining the size and speed of a wave?
It is the area in which the wind blows, it determines the speed and size or the ripples which later become waves.

3 How do waves in the open ocean differ from waves closer to the shore?
They are not as fast or high as they don't interact with the sea floor.

4 Draw an annotated diagram showing wavelength and ave height.
5 Draw an annotated diagram explaining how a wave breaks.




6 Explain the difference between the three different types of waves.
Spilling waves break far from shore on beaches with gentle slopes, plunging waves break on beaches relatively steep they often form tubes, whilst surging breakers occur on very steep beaches where the waves roll up the steep face rather than break over it. 
9 A tourist to Australia has asked you to advise them on the best areas for swimming at local beaches. Write a letter that explains to them the three types of waves and how to identify them.
The three types of waves are surging, spilling and plunging breakers. Surging breakers are the waves that roll right up a steep face and onto the sand before breaking, plunging breakers are the best waves in which the form tubes but break far from shore, whilst spilling breakers are the gentle ones breaking far from shore then gentle rolls over it's front making them good for body surfing. 
10 Imagine you are the lifesaver on duty at a busy Sydney beach during a large cyclone swell. Write an account of the day’s events.
Today winds hit our beach hitting hurricane speeds and with that came huge swells mainly spilling waves breaking out form shore but then surging very fast in land to hit the shore like surging breakers. I closed the beach for fear of injury but could not prevent everyone form swimming. I had a tough day at the office saving lives like always until finally people got the message and stayed out of the waters as the waves seemed to just be eroding the coast with their brute force. 

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