Vocabulary Words Quiz 3:

Erosion-accretion cycle - Sandy beaches are dynamic sedimentary systems that naturally experience phases of erosion and accretion

Groynes -  A groyne is an active structure extending from shore into sea, most often perpendicularly or slightly obliquely to the shoreline

Re-vegetation - Revegetation is the process of replanting and rebuilding the soil of disturbed land

Sea walls - Sea Walls is a term used to describe an embankment that prevents the erosion of a shoreline by water

Rock wall - Natural stacked stone veneer wall cladding

Beach nourishment - Beach nourishment is the process of dumping or pumping sand from elsewhere onto an eroding shoreline to create a new beach or to widen the existing beach

Sand bar - Sandbar is sand form erosion deposited offshore

Environmental impact study -  is an assessment of the possible positive or negative impact that a proposed project may have on the environment

Impact assessment - An environmental impact assessment is an assessment of the possible positive or negative impact that a proposed project may have on the environment, together consisting of the natural, social and economic aspects.

Vocabulary Words Quiz 2:

aeolian - is another name for wind transportation

spinifex - Is a native low lying coastal plant that helps the formation of sand dunes


constructive waves - Soft waves that do not erode the coastline but can deposit small sediment and materials upon the shores or landmasses.


corrasion - When waves crush over rock shelves, the action moves rocks and other sediments in what can be reffered to as an abrasive action. 


corrosion - When waves break they wet the rocks. As the rock dries the salt in the sea water crystallises and acts on the minerals in the rock to erode material.


refraction- Occurs because of the headlands or ocean topography and is when the wave energy is concentrated more so around some areas and less in others. 


deposition- is the geological process where materials and sediments are deposited on landforms and landmasses.

destructive waves- Beaches are subject to erosion from destructive waves caused by storms that are capable of removing large quantities of sand.


erosion- is the process by which materials are removed form the earth's surface and deposited somewhere else.


hydraulic action- is when waves pound against rock, forcing their way into cracks. It;s the pressure built up that cause erosion. Responsible for blow holes.


longshore drift- Is the process by which a wave hits thee coast at an angle, then dragged back by gravity and hit by another wave. It is this action that causes sand deposits to travel along the beach in a zig-zag formation.

Cavs Geography homework: 7.3

1 Name the three key geographical processes that shape the coastal environment.
They are Erosion, transportation and deposition.

2 What is wave refraction and why does it occur?
It is the wave energy being less focused in some areas and more focused in others due to headlands and the topography of the ocean floor.

Use a diagram to explain how wave refraction leads to the uneven distribution of wave energy along the coastline.

4 Name the most common erosional landforms found along the coastline.
The most common erosional features found along the coast are that of coastal headlands.

5 Describe the three wave action processes that shape headlands.
The are hydraulic action; waves crush against rock and the water compresses air in these gaps. Corrasion; waves carry rock an other materials across the rock shelf and wears away the rock in an abrasive fashion. Corrosion; waves break and wet the rocks which carry minerals in them, when the rock dries the salt crystallises and acts on the minerals in the rock to erode minerals.

6 Explain the operation of the erosion–accretion cycle.
Waves, wind and prevailing currents are all components of the erosion cycle. Wind creates swell and also carries of sediments, waves crush the coastal headlands and beaches and the prevailing currents carry deposits away form the shore creating sandbanks and such.

7 Name the three forces that shape depositional landforms on beaches.
They are the wind, waves and prevailing ocean currents.

8 Name the most common depositional landforms found along the coastline.
Beaches are the most obvious depositionl landforms found along coastlines.

9 Explain the process that forms coastal dunes. What role does vegetation play in their formation?
Coastal dunes are formed by wind, once the wind is deposited on the beach it is then subject to transportation, which is usually landward but is trapped by low lying vegetation. Thus forming sand dunes.

10 With the aid of a diagram describe the process of long shore drift. What role does this process play in transporting sand along the coast?

Long shore drift is when sand is deposited on beaches by waves that usually travel on an angle. The sand then travels in a zig-zag formation across the beach until it is finally deposited.

11 Select two erosional and two depositional landforms found on coasts. Sketch them into your notes and describe the processes that have formed each land form.







Two coastal land forms that come about as a result of erosion are that of a wave cut platform formed through the process known as Corrasion, and that of a blow hole formed by the process known as Hydraulic action.  Two coastal  ladfroms that form about as a result of decomposition are that of Sand dunes, formed through wind transportation of sand that is caught and accumulated by lowing lying vegetation. Also that of sandbars that occur during storms when large waves are created that erode the beach and the sand is taken some way out where it builds up as a sand bar which will eventually resettle on the beach.

12 What role does the foredune play in protecting coastal areas?
The fore-dune provides a buffer zone for the fragile dune vegetation located on the hind dunes.

13 Read the snapshot about the loss of one of the Twelve Apostles and use your knowledge of the coastal environment to answer the following:
a Where are the Twelve Apostles located?
they are located in Victoria at Port Campbell National Park
b Why are they a popular tourist destination?
Because they are one of Australia's most distinct coastal land forms
c Describe how the Twelve Apostles were formed.
They were formed as  result of the sea gradually eroding at the soft limestone
d What was London Bridge? What happened to this land form in 1990?
It was a natural arch that connected these off shore rocks to the mainland, it collapsed in 1990
e Do you think the collapse of the landforms along the coast could have been prevented? Explain your answer.
No it could not have been prevented, it must have been critically weakened after millions of years being subject to the ocean's corrosion powers. And the ocean will continue to erode. You can not hold back the ocean thus you can not prevent coastal erosion of these features.

Application
14 Imagine you are a park ranger employed at Port Campbell National Park. Prepare a brief talk that explains the formation and eventual destruction of the Twelve Apostles.
These landmarks were formed as a result of corrosion when the sea water after millions of years gradually corroded the soft limestone thus separating it from the land in isolated features as we see them today. Unfortunately they will not always stay in their beautiful and distinct shape as the ocean will continue to erode them until there is nothing left.

15 The local council has decided to buy back residential property located on a headland and a neighbouring fore dune that is subject to severe erosion. Local residents who own the property say the council is depriving them of their spectacular views, relaxed lifestyle and valuable property. Write a newspaper article that evaluates the council’s decision to buy back the properties. The article should present facts and consider a range of opinions about the issue. As a part of the article you will need to present an opinion on the property buy-back proposal.
The buying back of these properties is essential for the continual prosperity of these coastal environments. We humans are some of the most decisive factors in the changing environment. And as it happens the area in which these residents were located in is in fact subject to much erosion, it is probably also fair to say that it is a safer alternative for them, if the headland was to collapse with people living on it it could result in a great loss of life. Of course this is a hassle for the citizens and indeed most likely unnessessary but prevention is always better than the cure and it's better we act no and set the example for people to follow.

Banzai Pipeline

Pipeline is the perfect wave it’s barrelling, spitting tubes typify most people’s mental image of surfing a wave. Pipeline is located on Oahu's North shore and it was not that long ago that it was considered an unrideable wave. Few possess the knowledge and experience to ride these waves come a big swell. 

Pipelines waves are the perfect size and shape for a number of reasons associated with the swell created off shore and the topography of the sea floor. The sea floor is essential for the formation of these powerful waves, the sea floor is a typical table top reef, when the waves breach the shallows of the reef they start to break due to the wave energy being compressed in the shallow waters, pipeline is notorious for its huge waves and perfect barrels that are created just above the sharp and cavernous reef, forming large, hollow thick curls of water that surfers can tube ride. Ocean swells also play a major role in the formation of Pipeline's idealistic waves, but they only form at certain times of the year. Prime time is three of the four months during the year, usually from about August to as late as July. But the best times are from the summer months of October to March. As the North shore which includes pipeline is directly in the path of all the swell energy pouring down from the Gulf of Alaska and the Sea of Japan during these months huge swells are created. And because of the topography of the sea floor at Pipeline, and the areas around the North shore, the energy that is travelling through the water is converted, the water/energy slows and shoots up, causing the top of the wave to spill over the front forming the perfect waves. 

Question for the Video:

1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.                                                                                                         Plunging waves form when they hit relatively steep slopes, the top break over and fall over itself forming tubes ideal for surfing. Spilling waves form on relatively flat slopes breaking far from sure and then gently rolling in. Surging waves do not break when they hit the shore line but instead roll up it before smashing upon them causing much erosion. 
2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?                               Waves are formed far out at sea through storms and high wind speeds, they originate through air energy that transfers to water, they are measured by their height, wave length, wave period. 
3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?                                             A Maverick wave is a wave that forms of the coast of Canada and is special because of the way it forms, when the energy hits the steep slopes the wave refracts and causes huge waves to shoot up straight out of the ocean. 
4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?                                                                             It is stored in what can be described as multiple circulating energy spheres that travel form the wave surface to the sea bed and when in contact with shallow water are compressed froming the wave to shoot up. 
5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”                            You can wear weights that take you straght to the bottom or life jackets that keep you afloat in the instance you fall off. But the advice given is to not fall off and to catch it before it becomes to big. 

Geography homework 7.2

1 Outline the three stages in the formation of a wave.
First wind forms ripples, then these form wavelets and finally waves
2 What is the fetch? Why is it an important factor in determining the size and speed of a wave?
It is the area in which the wind blows, it determines the speed and size or the ripples which later become waves.
3 How do waves in the open ocean differ from waves closer to the shore?
They are not as fast or high as they don't interact with the sea floor.
4 Draw an annotated diagram showing wavelength and ave height.
5 Draw an annotated diagram explaining how a wave breaks.

6 Explain the difference between the three different types of waves.

Spilling waves break far from shore on beaches with gentle slopes, plunging waves break on beaches relatively steep they often form tubes, whilst surging breakers occur on very steep beaches where the waves roll up the steep face rather than break over it. 

9 A tourist to Australia has asked you to advise them on the best areas for swimming at local beaches. Write a letter that explains to them the three types of waves and how to identify them.

The three types of waves are surging, spilling and plunging breakers. Surging breakers are the waves that roll right up a steep face and onto the sand before breaking, plunging breakers are the best waves in which the form tubes but break far from shore, whilst spilling breakers are the gentle ones breaking far from shore then gentle rolls over it's front making them good for body surfing. 

10 Imagine you are the lifesaver on duty at a busy Sydney beach during a large cyclone swell. Write an account of the day’s events.

Today winds hit our beach hitting hurricane speeds and with that came huge swells mainly spilling waves breaking out form shore but then surging very fast in land to hit the shore like surging breakers. I closed the beach for fear of injury but could not prevent everyone form swimming. I had a tough day at the office saving lives like always until finally people got the message and stayed out of the waters as the waves seemed to just be eroding the coast with their brute force. 

Geography homework 7.2

1 Outline the three stages in the formation of a wave.

First wind forms ripples, then these form wavelets and finally waves

2 What is the fetch? Why is it an important factor in determining the size and speed of a wave?
It is the area in which the wind blows, it determines the speed and size or the ripples which later become waves.

3 How do waves in the open ocean differ from waves closer to the shore?
They are not as fast or high as they don't interact with the sea floor.

4 Draw an annotated diagram showing wavelength and ave height.
5 Draw an annotated diagram explaining how a wave breaks.

6 Explain the difference between the three different types of waves.

Spilling waves break far from shore on beaches with gentle slopes, plunging waves break on beaches relatively steep they often form tubes, whilst surging breakers occur on very steep beaches where the waves roll up the steep face rather than break over it. 

9 A tourist to Australia has asked you to advise them on the best areas for swimming at local beaches. Write a letter that explains to them the three types of waves and how to identify them.

The three types of waves are surging, spilling and plunging breakers. Surging breakers are the waves that roll right up a steep face and onto the sand before breaking, plunging breakers are the best waves in which the form tubes but break far from shore, whilst spilling breakers are the gentle ones breaking far from shore then gentle rolls over it's front making them good for body surfing. 

10 Imagine you are the lifesaver on duty at a busy Sydney beach during a large cyclone swell. Write an account of the day’s events.

Today winds hit our beach hitting hurricane speeds and with that came huge swells mainly spilling waves breaking out form shore but then surging very fast in land to hit the shore like surging breakers. I closed the beach for fear of injury but could not prevent everyone form swimming. I had a tough day at the office saving lives like always until finally people got the message and stayed out of the waters as the waves seemed to just be eroding the coast with their brute force.